Waves

Waves are one of the most important processes in the coastal zone, especially on open shorelines. A wave is simply movement of energy. And it is the delivery of energy to the shoreline via waves that makes them so important. The word “wave” can be applied to a wide range of phenomena: radar waves, microwaves, earthquake waves, light waves, radio waves, sound waves, shock waves.

All of these “waves” are energy moving from one place to another. The energy that moves as a wave across water is almost certain to have come from the wind. However, it is possible for other sources of energy to produce a wave. Boats make waves called wakes; earthquakes can generate tsunamis; throwing a rock into a pond will produce ripples. Nevertheless, the moving air in the atmosphere is responsible for almost all the transfer of energy into the water.